Fit Pics and Progress

Well, last night my Levi's 514x finally reached the point of needing to be cleaned. The Bean had decided to rub her vanilla wafers deep into my leg, and even with a washcloth the stain wasn't coming out... so after being purchased in March/April, they denim is finally going to go for a little swim in the washing machine. I've taken some pics this morning to document their progress so far. The lap whiskers, honeycombing, and wallet fades are pretty prominent. What's more, I have the opposite pocket going a bit too from carrying my cell phone.

What's more, here's the back and some close ups. I hope it can be seen from the images just how... umm... what's the correct adjective? Just how "oily" the denim has gotten. Any trace of rigidity is gone, and it's really loose and... yeah. Not loose in a fit sense, although it definitely has gotten "looser" through wear, but I mean it more like a texture as opposed to "rigid." Too, the color has started to fade to lighter shades of indigo and blue, beginning at the crotch and moving out to the stress points from there. The knees have also bulged incredibly and short of crouching are never tight at all.

What's more, I've also managed to finagle some fit-pics of the various GAP denims that I've picked up. This first selection is of the "skinny" fit in a 34/32. These I've actually already worn for 3-4 days so I'm sure they're not as tight as when I donned them for the very first time. I think the fit is decent, although I can feel my thighs getting bigger as I take on squats more and more at the gym. But, I think the leg taper is decent, and it gives a different aesthetic than anything else I've had in the denim department. Especially when paired with my Clark's Bushacre boots - it's a tapered silhouette going down the leg, and then all of a sudden there's this clunky boot. It's just cool to me. The thigh probably still has some stretch to give before they fit better, but they're a work in progress. The other two though, the Straight and Authentic, haven't been worn at all and still have the tags attached.

Those pictured here are the straight cut - about the same tightness through the thigh as the skinny, but untapered lower down on the leg. You can see how from about the calf down the denim maintains its width, and there's a much wider leg opening. Apparently Blogger won't let me post any more photos on this blog, so the Authentics will just have to wait for my next post, but at least y'all can get an idea of the difference.

November Update - GAP Premium

Well, it's certainly been a while - I have to apologize for not getting anything up. School and papers and work. That's been my life over the last two months. So, I've not really been up to anything new fashion wise. At least nothing that merits documentation online.

One bright spot I did want to talk about was a recent purchase from GAP.com. In the last year they've really been pushing their denim line and have recently released a number of "premium" offerings in all of their men's cuts. See here for their complete premium line.

They've got their cuts organized from slimmest to most roomy as follows. Skinny, Straight, Boot, Authentic, Standard, Easy, Loose: many of them with a premium version. I guess the "Easy" cut is too old-mannish to merit a premium release, and it's relatively impossible to maintain a selvage line in a boot-cut jean. But anyways - these jeans have been a relatively big hit in the premium denim market, inasmuch as their pricepoint (>$90) is much lower than the general competition, and they're just plain old well-constructed jeans.

They're a rigid one-wash jean, so shrinkage is pretty much out of the way at purchase. They sport a pretty deep, even indigo color. The selvage coin pocket is, I think, a really classy touch - although some reviews say it's too "trendy" an inclusion. And of course they're red-line selvage denim. Selvage is usually a sign of higher quality denim, meant to last longer and wear better, although it is important to note that that's not always the case (lest I be crucified on Superfuture or Styleforum). Anyways, from my experience thus far, the jeans aren't fast-faders by any means. They look to be staying dark and fitting well for a long time. In the abuse inflicted on a pair of straights since mid-summer, they hadn't yet really faded yet at all. I've since donated that pair to Jon to help his dating life, and I purchased for myself pairs in the skinny, straight, and authentic cuts. Those ones were too big anyways.

Yeah - they run a bit big. I'll normally wear a 34-waist, and to get a decent fit it's pretty necessary to go down a size in these. The 33-waist straights and authentics fit remarkably well, and while a 33-waist skinny was fine up top, through the thighs it was just too bloody tight. I was able to exchange the pair for a 34 at the store that had the same waist size with the lower half just slightly bigger. I currently don't have fit pics, but I'll be posting them in an *edit* later in the day after the camera finishes charging.

Overall, they're nice jeans - dark enough to pair with a blazer or something slightly more formal, but not beyond their workwear roots either. If I had to say offhand, I think my favorite cut is the "straight" although the rise is a little bit low than I prefer. The "authentic" is similarly cut, although with a higher rise. The "skinny" is just that - although not emasculatingly so. I haven't had any sort of tapered denim before, so the aesthetic is different in that pair, especially when paired up with some chunkier boots. The denim, as I've said before, does not fade quickly at all. Don't be expecting APC-like fades in anything less than 6 months of everyday wear. Too - the quality can't be expected to rival any of the Japanese brands that make their living producing denim: Eternal, Samurai, Sugar Cane, etc (the typical Blue in Green offering). But for their price (and the fact that GAP is consistently running 40% off coupons) they definitely pull their weight.

So, as said, fit pics will be posted within the next day or so. In the meantime, Happy Almost-Thanksgiving!

The Wells Fargo Wagon...

...is a coming down the street, oh please let it be for me. Last week, it finally was.

On Wednesday I received the long awaited Barbour International which I had purchased almost a month earlier via the buying/selling board at Styleforum. net. The jacket is even better in person than the various photos I examined online.

my Barbour A-7

First impressions are that the jacket is much, much warmer than I would have initially given it credit. I doubt that it will have any issues with SLC winters. The waxed cotton had a funny smell initially when taking it out of the bag, but that disappeared as I hung it to air out overnight. The craftsmanship is second to none, and it's easy to see how Barbour attained so many royal mandates (as outlined in the care booklets that accompany the coat). The waxed cotton feels very weatherproof, which will be great for rain and snow this winter. I even think that this jacket could survive the most brutal of camping trips. The interior is lined with a very "Burberry"-esque plaid lining, which I suspect is more due to its English heritage rather than any sort of deliberate copying. The jacket possesses both a waist band and neck cinch, and while useful at the waist, I have found that the neck cinch is too large for my neck even at its smallest measurement. The jacket does seem to run a tad large as well in general - I purchased a size 42, as is common in my suiting, but I suspect that a 40 would fit slightly more streamlined, even with a layer or two beneath.

A text from my friend Andrew officially declared me a BMOC for Fall Semester - Barbour, Boots, and Selvage denim. You can't really get much more classic than that!

Since the beginning of summer, I had been wearing in a pair of Sand Suede Clarks Desert Boots, and had been loving every minute of it. However, the boots took quite a beating in their mountain-climbing experience in the deserts of Las Vegas. In order to freshen up the look a bit for Fall, I snagged a great pair of DB's from the local Nordstrom Rack in a beeswax leather. Upon closer examination though, I found out that the boot, while immensely similar to my Sand Suede Clarks Originals, is not officially a "Desert Boot." Rather, it's listed as a Bushacre Boot - along the same vein, but rather than the crepe sole, it's a rubber one. No comparisons as of yet as to durability, considering my suede DB's survived a mountain and I've only had the Bushacre's for a week... but I'm sure time will tell. What's more, the beeswax leather looks very classy. Just a little shake up from the lighter suede.

already used and abused

An interesting thing to note about Clarks boots in general is that they run large. In other words, you'll want to buy the shoe slightly smaller than you normally would. Example - I typically wear an 11.5 US size in shoes. I've purchased both of my Clarks in size 11, and it still probably has a bit of room to spare.

What's more, with my 501STF having gone to The William (yes, I parted ways with my mountain-man denim for Jon's sake), my only current denim project are the raw 514's picked up in Las Vegas in early April. They are breaking in quite nicely, with all former rigid texture now turned into soft, supple denim. The honeycombs behind the knees are almost permanent, and I'm even getting some good thigh texture below the lap. When they finally do get washed, given their being made of Japanese denim, I suspect that the immediate indigo loss won't be too drastic. But on the other hand, the wear is starting to look permanent, and it's giving great character to the denim.

Levi's 514x

I'm super excited to see how these become even more customized. I can also say that they have stretched out considerably from their first purchase. I remember going out the night I bought them, and I would have labeled them veritable butt-huggers. Now they pull up comfortably in the morning, almost as if they know how my lower body is shaped. Ah, the wonders of raw denim.

So, with Gregorias, The William, and Davids all outfitted, I hope to be getting some additional fit pics soon to post in comparison to mine. The contest (more or less) is going to go until the end of Fall Semester, at which point the person with the coolest wear will win something cool (yet-to-be-decided).

Additionally, I have to make a shameless plug for Victorious Secret, my intramural soccer team for the semester. I was able to make an amazing snatch from my favorite football e-store in the world, prodirectsoccer.com. With the ending of the World Cup, the Nike Elite lines in the WC colorway (GreyPurple/Orange) went on a ₤100 discount. Hence and even still, you're able to generally snag the Elite versions of Nike's football boot line for less than even the new "standard" versions for this season. So, for only $160 ($40 less than the newest releases, and about $130 less than the new Elites) I grabbed a pair of Nike's Control boot - the CTR360 Maestri. Pushed generally by the likes of Cesc Fabregas, Carlos Tevez, and Rafael Van der Vaart, the boot focuses on the control aspect of the game, passing, distribution, etc. Don't have a real photo yet, so here's the one from Prodirect.

Nike CTR360 Maestri Elite

Our team's next game is Saturday around noon, so super excited to get these things exposed to some footballing action!

Anyways, that's enough for now. Will be back when posts merit it -

501 updates

Just got back from my desert homeland and have to update the blog... it's just been too long without anything. While down in Sin City, a group of my friends and I decided to climb a mountain. Not hike, not walk trails.... literally climb a mountain. It was great fun and put some serious wear on my 501's (the denim I deemed appropriate for such outdoor excursions, along with trusty Clark's Desert Boots which have now actually trekked through a desert!)

Well, long story short, coming down we took the wrong path and ended up jumping down a dry river bed from boulder to boulder for 2 extra hours in Vegas midday heat. So, the jeans were pretty messed up. Sweat, dirt, plants, all the good things about being outside in overabundance. So, they required their second soak in almost a week. I shrank them again the Sunday before because they were beginning to bag out - so in these jeans are an additional two soaks since last photographed (1 hot, 1 tepid). They've lost a bit more indigo, but the fading is really coming through, especially on the butt - probably due to the fact that we came down the mountain on all fours. But wear is wear, and it wasn't faked!

So, the indigo appears to be shifting colors, definitely getting lighter. Too, I found that these continued to shrink down even after this third soak. They're noticeably tighter now than at any point after the previous two exposures to water. Additionally, the texture is becoming more "grainy" as they are wet more and more, and that initial stiffness from the "raw" phase is almost completely gone. After the 2nd soak I actually sprayed starch on the back of the knees to maintain and sharpen the "honeycombs" as well as across the lap for the stress marks there. I think the photos make the denim a bit lighter than it truly is, but conversely it does help to highlight the changes taking place as the indigo dye lifts from certain places and sticks in others, creating that look of contrast in the color.

I'm enjoying these jeans more and more as they wear to me. Initially I thought I'd demo these for about three months and then get started on my '47's as the "main project", but as these take on more and more individuality they're changing from "that project" to "my jeans," if that makes any sense. I'm excited at that prospect. I mean, these were 30 bucks!

Gregorias has started on his project already for the semester, we just purchased David's while at the Charleston Outlets in Vegas, and we're picking up the William's denim this week just before the semester starts. I feel like I'm cheating already so far ahead of the pack, so maybe I'll start the 47's anyways. We'll see.

Brumby

No blog centered on fashion would be complete without a little bit of divergence into the musical world. I wanted to throw up a link to a new EP just put out by the up-and-coming band, Brumby. They're a group of 4 young musicians, all cousins, based out of Las Vegas, Nevada. You can go here for a free download of their latest studio endeavor, Rosebud.

Shown left to right are Oliver Tingey (vocals), Tyler Tingey (Guitar), Spencer Tingey (Bass, Programming, Synths) and Dylan Self (Drums & Percussion). Check out their Facebook page as well here and become a fan.

That is all for now. Just a quick shout out.

Belstaff and Barbour

I am pleased to announce that a dear compatriot will be joining me in my denim experiment this coming Fall semester. Gregorias Bartholomew Kenzington III twice removed from the D'urberville line, this one's for you.

My man recently stepped into the world of raw denim with the great purchase of some Levi's Shrink-To-Fit in Indigo, size 30x34 pre-wash (along with some dirty Argentine-style stretch-denim, full of hidden zippers on the butt and everything). With his consent we're going to get some fit pics up for him pre- and post-soak for even greater reference. Another dear friend, The William, has agreed to be a part of the experiment despite expressing some anxiety over not washing a pair of jeans for an entire semester. Hahahaha... we'll see.

I've been doing a bit of research about both Belstaff and Barbour jackets with that rich Northern England heritage. Despite the hefty price tags, I'm considering an investment. I'm really taken by the classics in both brands, particularly the Belstaff Original Trailmaster and the Barbour International Original. I'm also intrigued by the Barbour Ursula (originally produced for submarine crews during WWII) as well as the Belstaff Che Guevarra Replica Jacket. The first two mentioned are a waxed cotton, as per motorcycle jackets. They're all belted and fall to just below the hips. Unfortunately I can't find any way to copy images from their website in order to show them off.

I received this link from a friend of mine, explaining the unique history of the Barbour Ursula jacket.

My personal studies at the university are the basis for my intrigue in the Guevarra Replica jacket, apparently a replica of the coat he donned while motorcycling around South America in the early 1950s.

This is a small example of the Belstaff Trailmaster, with all of the jackets honestly approximating to the same design. Belted, four flap pockets, waxed cotton, etc. The only thing is from what I can gather these are not sold retail domestically, here in the USA. A quick review of Belstaff's website reveals flagships exclusive to the major cities of Europe.

This example was found on amazon.com of all places. This one is the Barbour International, which I think I like a bit better because it doesn't look like a highly-glossed leather. The great thing about Barbour jackets is that they're still produced in England, as per their roots, and the price point is generally lower than the now "Italianized" Belstaffs. Belstaff originally began by providing waterproof jackets for motorcyclists while competitors Barbour were grounded more in outdoorswear and hunting in particular.

Interestingly enough, JCrew has partnered up with both brands in order to expose them to an American market... their price is drastically marked up (such as the JCrew/Levi's collaboration), and they're given a more "fashionable" vibe in comparison to original intentions.

Currently the only issue would be finding a reputable American dealer. Any help would be appreciated.

Ramblings of the Mind

This is a stack of Brooks Brothers' shirts that I found whilst meandering online. Little things like this, random pictures or ideas, make fashion so much fun for me. The combination of various textures, patterns, fabrics, and colors appeal to me.

As I was going through my computer to find things to add to the blog layout, I rediscovered a few images that I had copied from various areas of the internet in order to utilize in my blog. Now, I will do so.

This is Levi's marketing stating how to purchase and wear your Shrink-to-Fits. Information straight from the company. I'll have to post this to see if it's even readable or if it's too small as I have it.

It's too small - here are the official Levi's STF-recommended steps:

1) Find your true size

2) Wear them out of the store (after you buy them)

3) Live in them as long as possible

4) Wash them as little as possible

5) When absolutely necessary, soak them for 20 minutes with a cupful of Dr. Bronner's Soap

6) Let them drip dry until they are slightly damp

7) Put them back on (hopefully on a warm day or by a nice fire)

8) As they dry, they'll shape to your body

9) ENJOY!!

So, that's pretty much the whole process that I had arrived at on my own anyways. Maybe I should have scanned my hardrive a bit more first.

I know I haven't addressed suiting as a form of fashion yet, but I thought this picture just exuded the attitude a suit should grant its wearer. This is from Banana Republic a few months back.

I don't know this man, nor do I profess to. His image was floating around the WAYWT thread on Styleforum.net and I thought he exuded coolness. I'd like to make his image mine. Or at least work from that same type of pallet.

Honestly, that's all for now. I'm currently wishing I had more money on-hand to be able to purchase a few denim projects that I have in mind. Currently, Levi's.com is having a %40 off sale and their 501 Selvage STF and their Raw Indigo Trucker Jacket have my interest. Sadly, I could have gotten both of them for %40 off in one purchase yesterday if only the funds were available. Oh well.

I plan on taking those 646 Orange Tabs into my tailor, the wonderful Lady Danburry, and getting them tapered down to a more traditional slim/straight. Probably a little more fitted than my 501 STF's that I'm working on, but a tad more roomy than the Selvage 514's I have suspended in my bedroom. The denim is obviously of great quality, being from the LVC line, and I have great hopes for some amazing fades.

What's more, APC New Standards and Dior Homme 21cm's currently have my attention as quality pieces of denim to examine. The APC's are on needsupply.com for a great price and I may be making a purchase. The funny thing is that you're told to SIZE DOWN 2 waist sizes in your purchase (ala I'm a 34 and would therefore buy a 32). The stretch in the jeans is incredible. If you can close the top button, regardless of comfort, then within a month the stretch out to falling off your bum.

So, what's up with the sudden increase in LVC prices online? I'm wanting to get a spare '47, and it's gone from 150 Euros or so to like 210, at least on Oi Polloi. I suppose since production has gone overseas to Europe that some things be a changing.

I've also been fascinated by the latest reports of Japanese super-chain Uniqlo possibly buying out GAP here in the states. That would be a breath of fresh air for the brand, and their quality would probably go back up to at least where it was 7-8 years ago. A friend of mine was in London recently and walked by their UK flagship store without going in, and I wanted to kick myself for her.

Well, not much to post denim-wise. It's a longer process than I gave it credit for. That's probably why the guys on SF.net have so much pride in their denim projects. It's like a whole year of your life invested into a garment.

I'm wanting to invest in a vintage military Timex, but not for the $150 Jcrew pricetag. Hmmm... Ebay? You've been my friend in the past.

The ending of the World Cup has left a serious void in my life that needs to be filled.

51 Things - A List

Because I have nothing better to do right now:

1. Do you like blue cheese? No. That little trait does not run in the family.
2. Your Favorite Shoes? Clark's Desert Boots
3. Do you own a gun? Not currently, but that situation will soon be remedied.
4. Your favorite song? Currently: Half of My Heart by John Mayer
5. Do you get nervous before doctor appointments? No. Not unless he pulls on butt-inspection gloves.
6. What do you think of hot dogs? Meh.
7. Favorite Christmas song? Soul Cake
8. What do you prefer to drink in the morning? Orange Juice
9. Can you do push ups? Yes. Many.
10. Are you afraid of flying? No - just usually too expensive.
11. What's your favorite piece of jewelry? ... Wedding ring?
12. Favorite hobby? Fashion/Soccer.
13. Animals: love them or hate them? From a distance love. Don't like things in my house.
14. Do you have ADD? Not officially, but my closet says otherwise.
15. What do you hate about yourself? Don't feel all that fit or attractive, personally.
16. What is your middle name? Robert
17. Name 3 thoughts at this exact moment: It's warm in here. I wish I had money to blow. The Bean is almost asleep.
18. What's your favorite number? 3/13
19. Name 3 drinks you regularly drink? V8 Juice, Milk, Root Beer
20. Current worry right now? Wishing I had a gym membership for the summer.
21. Current hate right now? Dead car outside.
22. Favorite place to be? With family, regardless of where.
23. How did you bring in the New Year? In a hospital.
24. Where would you like to go? To the 2014 World cup in Brazil, and then mosey on down to Arg.
25. Bad habits: Self-hate. Compulsive browser (only not "shopper" because I don't buy the stuff I look for)
26. Do you own slippers? Ewww. No. Too old man.
27. What shirt are you wearing? Navy striped V-neck from BR
28. Do you like sleeping on satin sheets? Never have, so can't say.
29. Can you whistle? Yeppers.

30. Favorite Color? Blue in various shades, including tinges of green and purple.
31. Would you be a pirate? No. The whole pirate craze of today is freaking stupid.
32. What songs do you sing in the shower? Haven't sung in a long time, period.
33. Favorite girl's name? Sophia or Ella
34. Favorite boy's name? Ezra
35. What's in your pocket right now? Wallet and a single car key
36. Last thing that made you laugh? The Bean
37 . Best bed sheets as a child? Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles
38. Worst injury you've ever had? Sliced my hand open rolling down a hill.
40. How many TVs do you have in your house? 2
41. Who is your loudest friend? Jonathan Freaking William Litster
42. How many dogs do you have? None, and so it shall remain, dearest.
43. Does someone have a crush on you? I would hope my wife does.
44. Favorite Book? Haven't read a ton of things in my life that make reading worthwhile. Angels and Demons.
45. Partying hard or Laying low? Never partying hard, but having nothing to do sucks.
46. What is your favorite candy? Skittles or Starburst
47. Favorite Sports Team? Real Madrid, although I have Barcelona sympathies.
49. What were you doing 12 AM last night? Skyping with my brother
50. What was the first thing you thought of when you woke up? I forgot to put my baselayers in the dryer.
51. If you are married, where did you meet your WIFE/HUSBAND? In Argentina

Meh. I need something to do. I wish these STF would wear faster.

A Denim Rarity

Just wanted to throw up some pics of a potentially rare piece of denim that I copped from TJMaxx of all places. From a bit of research it is a pair of Levi's 646 Bell Bottoms. Apparently, LVC released a repro of this cut (originally produced from '66 - '83 or so) beginning in their 2006 line. The denim feels raw (untreated) although the tag mentions that only 3% shrinkage should occur on washing. I'm putting these photos up in case anyone has any information about the pair.

Note the Orange Tab, with a Capital E, as was found only on runs between '66 and '71. Also it was one of the few Levi's to not sport the classic leather/paper tag on the back of the waistband, and it lacks a 5th coin pocket in the front. I'm posting some of these images on Styleforum.net to see if I get any hits and any additional information regarding history and production. And, frankly, if they're worth keeping, I might just have another pair of raw denim to break in.

Albeit EXTREMELY dated. Bell Bottoms? C'mon.

----------------

Edit as of 7/16/10

Found out from Pablo-T on Styleforum.net that Levi's themselves issued a reproduction of the '66 646 a year or two ago that they originally went between $130-$150. Apparently, it was not through Levi's Vintage Clothing as I suspected. But thanks to him for the info and clarification.

Edit as of 7/16/10

Further posting and searching has resulted that the 646's are in fact LVC from 2005-06. Shorty Long @ Styleforum.net made my month!!!! Now back to the store to proxy for other SF buyers.

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=129454&page=30

Fit Pics for Soaked 34x34's

Just wanted to post a few fit pics of the denim experiment. First off are the post-soak pictures of the 34x34 STF's that I soaked a few weeks ago. Needless to say, I have been wearing them everyday since then, and so they've bagged out a tad since their initial "post-soak measurements". Frankly, I've been quite pleased with them, and they're retaining their creases and abrasions very well. I'm going to try to do a full six months with them before I do any soaks or washes (both of which remove indigo in varying degrees, soaks less than washes), but will document them as they go as well. Hopefully can be seen is the effect of the anti-fit in the rear. The jean is rather fitted through the lower leg, but as it creeps up the thigh, there's more and more give. This, apparently, has been greatly lessened in the LVC 1947 model. I wish I had thought to take comparison pics of the raw denim after I initially exchanged the 36 waist for the 34 in the STF. Wearing them straight out of the bathtub resulted in a bit of "knee buldge" on this pair (given that I sat down and watched the Argentina/Mexico World Cup game). Apparently this is normal, especially if you remain seated while the denim initially dries. From what I read, this will be minimized upon their next submersion in water, slimming the leg down a bit more.

Hopefully can be seen to are the stress areas as they're already being developed. The crotch and knees for now are the main points, although the thighs get a bit too, especially when crouched or seated. I figure they'll become more prominant in the pictures as they wear a bit more. The lighting in these photos isn't as high-contrast as I'd like, but I wanted to get at least something up in the meantime. Still searching my house for the perfect photo area.

Additionally, here are some fit pics of my 514 Selvage pair as well. From what I can gather, they are a sanfordized 514, which means they shouldn't shrink down a ton when hitting water, but for now I'm too nervous to attempt it. They're already about as thin as I'd prefer to go, and any smaller would result in decreased sperm count. I'd been wearing these since I acquired them in mid-April, although since the 34STF soak, they've been relegated to the closet. Sadly, this began to minimize the wear I'd put into them and I have since taken them and put them on a hangar in order to keep them a bit more worn in than "folded on a shelf". Hopefully it can be noted how much lower a rise the 514's have than the 501.

The last photo is a tad lighter than the others, and while not showing their true color (it's still darker) I think it serves to demonstrate how these are taking wear in comparison to a pair of 501STF denim. The texture of the 514 has soften considerably since their purchase, being a normal occurence as they're worn in. I'm not super psyched about that, because I do prefer that the denim is more rigid. This can be solved by starching the jean after watching, although the effect of starch on the denim is debated. While re-stiffening the denim, it does cause the areas of greatest stress to become weaker, often leading to "blow outs" (such as in the crotch region) or tears simply coming more easily.

So, we'll leave it at that until I have something more to show. My plans for now are to wear these STF until they get some great fades, and then begin the LVC '47's next, although in reality that probably won't be until early next year, if that. That is something wierd to think about, planning out what I'll wear a year in advance. My raw denim queue is piling up - the 501 STF, the 514's either concurrently or next, followed by the raw 1969 GAP Straights (which are apparently near impossible to fade or wear through, for better or worse) and finally the LVC.

34x34 Soak Day

This morning post-England v. Germany, I decided to do my warm soak of the newest 34x34 STF's in my jean arsenal. A few interesting details: I noticed that the faux-leather (aka paper) patch on the jeans listed them as a 501XX fit - which was interesting because every STF under $50 that I've seen has just read 501. I also noted that the jeans were of the "Made in Mexico" variety which, from a bit of online research and lurking at various message boards, apparently have very accurate shrinking and fit properties.

I sat in a warm bath with them on for about 20 minutes, and then got out to let them finish narrowing down. The fit was wearable even without soaking - the waist was decent, a tad long, and they felt rather fitted even before being exposed to water. I considered taking the "wear-the-crap-out-of-them-first" approach as proposed by many denim aficionados, particularly on styleforum.net, but decided against it given that doing so would cause any and all fades and wear to effectively shrink with the pants the first time they were laundered. A quick soak (less than an hour in warm water) I figured would take care of any shrinkage, while still preserving the majority of the indigo. This is one thing I noticed after hot-soaking the old 36/36's 3 times in less than 24 hours, and can be seen by the photos - they lightened up considerably even with just those few exposures to water. For maximum contrast in fades, I highly suggests keeping them away from water as much as possible for as long as possible. Here are fit pics pre-soak:

Again, I could immediately feel them tighten up when I sat in the water, and I tried to pay particular attention to the legs, as I felt the leg openings come up from being trapped under my heels to coming just above the sole of my foot while I was in the water. Impressive shrinkage in such a short amount of time. The waist I also felt go down maybe an inch or so - I'm not as concerned about shrinkage in the waist as of right now given that I'm reading a lot about how the waist will tend to stretch back out to around pre-soak measurements with simple wear.

Well, for now it's time to grab the jeans out of the bath (I took them off in there in order to get this post up) and jaunter on down to a friend's house for the Argentina v. Mexico game this afternoon. AGUANTE LOS GAUCHOS!!! VIVAN LOS ALBICELESTES!!!

A Slight Hiccup in the Process

The soaks didn't pan out as planned for my 36/36 STFs. After soaking them and letting them dry on me, I still considered them far too baggy to be in good taste; the waist had shrunk a decent amount, perhaps the indicated two inches, but the legs remained almost as loose as they had been pre-soak. So, I hot-soaked the jeans twice more (once in the washing machine on a hot, gentle cycle and once more in the bathtub with the tap as hot as it could get) hoping to get them a bit smaller.

Sadly, my efforts were in vain as can be seen from the photos following. The jeans were still far too relaxed in their final shrink, and so I dug out my Dillard's receipt and gathered all of the merchandising from the pair of jeans and made a trek out to the mall. Upon trying to exchange them for another smaller pair, the attendee kind of gave me a funny look as I described why I was returning them. I guess he hadn't been briefed on the products he was selling... sheesh... mindless retail people :)

I had enjoyed how the denim stiffened up to an extreme degree while they dried. The fabric didn't quite reach the "sandpaper" level as claimed by other blogs and denim aficionados that I have read, but the denim was definately hard enough and condusive to creases and creating those stress lines that eventually will fade.

In the end, I was able to exchange them for a 34/34 of the same cut and color. I had liked the way the 36 length worked out, but considering these specific pairs aren't selvedge denim there's not really a need to cuff the jeans to show it off. So, the current 34 length should work out fine.

An interesting side note that I discovered upon returning home with the smaller pair: I laid them out to see how measurements compared between the LVC 501xx's and this new "cheap" pair I had obtained. The waists of both now lined up exactly and the cut through the butt and upper thighs were extremely simliar. It appears that size correlation between the LVC 501's and the commonplace STF's are two inches. Example:

LVC 1947 501xx - 36/36

is most similar in size to a

501 STF - 34/36

in general.

So, in the case of purchase, I would suggest based on what I have personally witnessed that those interested in purchasing decent-fitting 501 STF (a post-shrink straight to slim fit) to purchase the raw denim at your normal waist size with an extra 2 inches in the length. The STFs appear to be sized slightly larger initially than the tag says (whether or not this is to help account for shrinkage remains to be seen).

This would correlate in '47 LVC sizing (each LVC cut is different and I throw this in to be specific) to purchasing 2 inches greater than your normal waist size and either 2 or 4 inches greater in length, depending if you wanted to cuff the selvedge denim.

See? This experiment is paying off already.

Well, I plan tomorrow to conduct a hot soak in the bathtub of these new 34/34's to see how they behave, and if necessary I will ammend my comments above.

- Joseph

501 STF - Soak Day

Today I was able to find a moment to sit down and get to work on my denim project. I took my run-of-the-mill 501 STF's and sat down in a hot bath with them on in order to shrink them up. Pictures are here too.I noticed immediately that the jeans were extremely roomy and very long in comparison to how I normally wear them. This is, of course, pre-wash. The size 36/36 initially isn't so condusive to my 34/32 body. Upon sitting in the tub of hot water, I could immediately feel the denim begin to shrink up. Within 5 minutes, the thighs weren't nearly so loose, and I could feel the length coming up to touch the bottom of my feet. After 20 minutes in a rather warm tub of water, I detected that the initial shrink was done and more wouldn't happen until they began to dry. So, I carefully climbed out of the jeans and left them submerged, adding a bit more water. They've since been sitting in the tub and I'm about to go grab them out.
The game is afoot, friends.

Un Regalo Desde Alemania

So on Monday the day finally came, albeit with a slight mishap from FedEx. I received my '47 501's from cultizm.com in Germany, and MAN am I excited. First off, I want to post a picture describing a bit more of the "wear properties" that I described in my last post. I was desperately searching for a picture I remembered from somewhere online but I didn't find it until today. So, note that the two jeans as they appear here are the exact same item. Well - they're the same jean, one just has nine months of wear and washing on it. THIS is what I think is so amazing and I can't wait to see how my pair comes out.

I'm going to be posting comparison shots tonight of the two pairs of 501's that I now have - a 1947xx as well as a run of the mill one from now to try to demonstrate the differences in cut, fabric, etc. Both of the pairs are listed as a size 36/36.

Hopefully then you can recognize the differences. In the 1st photo it is easily noted how much more shaped the 1947 is than the current one. Especially in the upper thigh you can see how much more sharply it cuts in from the top of the inseam. This characteristic of newer cuts of the 501 is referred to as "anti-fit" as in "not fitting." Whoever came up with that term deserves an award...

The second photo displays the promotions of the two pairs and you can begin to see the differences in the quality of the denim and a slight difference in the indigo as well. The cheap 501 seems to be a bit more grey while the '47xx has a really deep indigo color. Maybe "greyer" isn't the right word, but the '47 definately seems more saturated.

The third picture tries to display that a bit more clearly. The cheap 501 is place on top of the '47xx. Here you can also note the difference in texture.

The last photo shows the difference in the waist size even before washing. The '47 is noticeably smaller in the waist by an inch and a half or more. Easily explains why the '47 cut is considered so thin in comparison to modern day versions.

This is the patch of the 1947xx (as can be noted by the LOT label). Obviously the patch on these ones is not paper, which has been the case over the last 30 years or so.

Perhaps I'll try to get some pics up of the selvage 514's that I'm wearing right now to see how they're doing after about two months of wear.

This is an example of one of the selvage (or selvedge) seams on the inside of the pant. It's made with 12.5oz Red Cone Denim straight out of North Carolina.

This was the letter enclosed and included in with the jeans explaining a bit about the making of them. It's a cool vintage sort of touch, and I think shows a great appreciation for the product. It's the kind of thing that BR might take note of and incorporate in future marketing... I've pictured it here, but just in case it doesn't read through, here's a transcript:

"To the Owner of this 501 Jean,

1947: 501 Jean

The 1947 501 jean is a kind of hybrid, harboring attributes from the 1930's and World War II, combined with an eye to the coming Baby Boom years. That is, it was a jean that was embodied both a storied past and a bright future.

When World War II ended and raw materials were available again, Levi Strauss & Co. leaped back into heavy production ot meet the growing post-war 501: slimmer fitting, with no extra details like the cinch or suspender buttons, this was a jean that was ready to rock and roll. The watch pocket rivets came back after their wartime hiatus. And the Arcuate was stitched on the back pockets again, after being applied with paint during the war's duration. But it came back in a different form: thanks to new, double needle technology, the famed double arching stich was now uniform in size and design, no longer subject to the skill of the individual sewing machine operator and her single neele machine.

The red Tab with it's capital "E" had never gone away, thanks to its status as a trademark. And the red selvage, 12oz. Cone Mills denim was still the bedrock of the jean, as it had been for nearly two decades.

By the end of the 1940s Levi's jeans were being sold across the U.S., aimed at the new, emerging middle class. The 1947 501 was the jean of a new generation.

DESIGN DETAILS:

Cone Mills 12oz Red Selvage Denim (14oz after wash) - 2 back pockets with covered rivets - "E" red Tab - Two Horse leather patch - Double neelde stitched Arcuate - Watch pocket rivets returned after the war ***** - No crotch rivet

Enjoy!

Yours Truely,

Levi Strauss and Co."

Not to bad a thing. No point but really cool in a geeky kind of way.

This is the sort of stuff that makes fashion, though - the cool little stories behind why things are made the way they are.

Well, hope you enjoy embarking on this journey with me.